Opening hours vary considerably, with newsagents and sandwich bars open well before 9am and other stores just getting going by 9.30 or 9.45am. Most are closed by 5.30 to 6pm, but on Thursday there is late night shopping until 8pm. The majority of shops are closed all day Sunday.

If you buy anything to take home with you, you should be entitled to a VAT (sales tax) refund within two months of the purchase, if you are resident outside the European Union.

STORES AND SHOPS

The main shopping areas are Nassau Street, Grafton Street, St. Stephen's Green, Temple Bar, O'Connell Street and Henry Street. The department stores are on Grafton Street (Brown Thomas, excellent for Irish fashion design has now relocated to the former Switzers building) and in O'Connell Street (Clery's, for the more budget-conscious). For Irish and European gifts try House of Ireland on Nassau Street.

Shopping malls include the St. Stephen's green shopping centre, the largest in the city, which is a bright and spacious shopping area where you can buy just about anything and also have a meal (it can be very crowded, especially in summer). The Powerscourt Townhouse on Clarendon Street (follow the sign on Grafton street) is on a smaller scale and specialises in wonderful restaurants, cafes, crafts, jewellery and clothes stores.

On the other side of Grafton street in Dawson street is the royal Hibernian way, a small shopping mall with some very exclusive clothes shops. Finally, there is the iIlac centre which is second only to St Stephen's green. Here you will find many clothes stores for all ages and a large branch of Dunnes Stores, an Irish clothes and food shop chain.

Branches of Marks and Spencers can be found in Grafton Street and Henry street, where most of the larger chain stores are represented, including the body shop for natural beauty products, HMV for music and concert tickets and the Levis store for casual clothing.

Of course, Dublin wouldn't be Dublin without its markets, and one of the best of Mother Redcap's in Back Lane (opposite Christ Church cathedral). This wonderful indoor market has stalls selling clothes and music, books and antiques, as well as excellent cakes and cheeses (try the Gallic Kitchen just inside the entrance). If you're looking for bargain second-hand clothes, try the Iveagh market, next door to Mother Redcap's.